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Charlevoix Area Garden Club Member, Rhea Dow doesn't limit her horticulture activities to summer. She is currently starting new geranium plants from cuttings and forcing forsythia branches to bloom in vases. You can follow the photos below to see how it's done. Creating New Geranium Plants from Cuttings Take cuttings from the "Mother Plant". The tools and the cuttings. The cuttings taking root in water. After the cuttings have established roots (about 4-5 weeks) move the new plants to a container filled with potting soil. Make sure the container has sufficient drainage. Once planted, your rooted geranium cutting will need the same care you would give any other geranium plant in your garden. Forcing Forsythia Bring a touch of spring indoors and enjoy watching forsythia bloom in a vase while winter carries on outside your windows. It's fairly simple to create this "living arrangement. Cut branches from Forsythia bushes and crush the ends with a hammer to allow them to draw water. Stand the stems in deep water. Watch for the flowers - then arrange in your favorite vase and enjoy! One February, a friend of Rhea's sent her a Happy Imbolc email. Happy Imbolc?? Exploring Imbolc, she found an interesting history of ancient farmer's observations and festivals. From the Boston Public Library: Imbolc symbolizes the halfway point between the winter solstice and the spring equinox. The word "imbolc" means "in the belly of the Mother," because the seeds of spring are beginning to stir in the belly of Mother Earth. Observing plants, Rhea has found that increased growth to starts to happening in February. Cuttings root faster. Leaf buds break on plants in the greenhouse. Plants start to wake up! It is like a yawn in the yearly cycle of the plant kingdom.

An updated USDA Plant Hardiness map was released in November 2023. It is the standard by which gardeners and growers can determine which perennial plants are most likely to survive in their location. This map puts the City of Charlevoix and Charlevoix Township in Zone 6a. On the 2012 USDA Map Charlevoix was Zone 5b, and in the 1990 version we were Zone 5a. In the new map about half of the country has shifted to a new zone. Plant hardiness zone designations represent the “average annual extreme minimum temperature” at a given location during a particular time period (30 years, in the case of the new map). The designations do not reflect the coldest it has ever been or ever will be at a specific location, but simply the average lowest winter temperature, and gardeners know that how cold it is during the winter is a crucial factor in the survival of plants. The 2012 USDA Zone Hardiness Map (above) The 2023 map incorporates data from 13,412 weather stations compared to the 7,983 that were used for the 2012 map. The latest edition of the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is GIS (Geographic Information System)-based and is specifically designed for the Internet. It enables viewers to examine plant hardiness zones at a much finer scale than 1990 and earlier maps. Simply type your ZIP Code in the box near the top of the map and your zone will be reported. https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov When selecting perennials, the Plant Hardiness Zone is not the only thing to consider. A gardener needs to assess their specific conditions – meaning the microclimate(s) in the garden. Microclimates can be created by a number of things such as physical structures (walls, or buildings). Dense surfaces (brick, stone, concrete, etc.) will hold and radiate heat. They can also shelter plants by blocking the wind. Topography and large bodies of water will change the growing climate, as well. It’s obvious when you look at the USDA map that Lake Michigan has a huge impact on our climate. As you move to the eastern end of Charlevoix County, you may find yourself in Zone 4. Lake Michigan serves to moderate the climate in Charlevoix. We experience cooler temperatures during the spring and early summer and warmer temperatures during the fall and early winter than locations farther from the lake. The lake effect also increases the cloudiness and snowfall during the fall and winter. Daisies happily growing in the Depot Heritage Garden on Lake Charlevoix If you live on top of a hill, or deep in a valley, you will find differences between what the USDA Map says and what is actually happening in your location because topography plays a major role. Valleys can have more frost problems because warm air is lighter than cold air. Rainfall, shade, soil types, mulching practices, paved surfaces, fences or dense hedges can also impact your microclimates. Clever gardeners can manipulate their microclimates to work for them. So, zone maps are not absolute – they are just one of the tools that are useful in plant selection. Another of those tools is the MSU Extension list of statewide frost free dates. This list can help you decide when it’s safe to put flowering annuals and vegetables into your garden. https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/frost-free-dates Colorful Zinnia are happy in the Pere Charlevoix Garden on Lake Michigan The new map is telling us what we already know – the climate is changing. The region has gotten warmer and wetter since 1900, with Michigan seeing average yearly temperature increase by two to three degrees Fahrenheit and average rainfall increase by around five inches. According to GLISA (a Climate Partnership between the University of Michigan and Michigan State University): https://glisa.umich.edu The frost-free season lengthened by 16 days in the Great Lakes region from 1951-2017, and may extend up to 50 days longer by 2100. As air temperatures continue to rise and further warm the Great Lakes, areas in lake-effect zones will continue to see increasing lake-effect snowfall as a warmer atmosphere will be able to hold increasing amounts of moisture. Since 1951, average temperatures have increased by 2.3°F (1.3°C) in the U.S. Great Lakes region. By 2050, average air temperatures are projected to increase by 3 to 6°F (1.7 to 3.3°C). Winter temperatures have been rising faster than temperatures during other seasons. Some of this may be good news in the short term – warmer weather and fewer frost-free days will give us a longer growing season and widen the selection of plants we can grow. The bad news is that the negative effects of increasing storm activity, flooding, extreme heat, summer drought risks, and pests may outweigh the benefits of warmer temperatures. Researchers at the USDA have been studying the effects of the warming climate on plants. You can read more here: https://www.ars.usda.gov/oc/dof/growing-plants-in-a-hotter-world/ Bergamot is a pollinator-attracting native perennial The bottom line for us gardeners is the same as it has always been. In order for a plant to thrive we need to choose the right plant for the right place. Yes, we may be able to add azaleas to our gardens now, but they may not survive if all of the other conditions (soil, light, moisture) and the microclimate of the planting location are not right. Native plants are always a good choice for your garden. According to the Xerces Society: Native, pollinator-attracting plants in the garden “By greening and transforming our landscapes, we can absorb carbon, reduce urban temperatures, provide habitat that supports pollinators and many other animals, create connections between larger patches of habitat that will allow pollinators to move through our communities—and native plants are the best way to do this. In addition to supporting a greater diversity and abundance of bees, and vastly more species of butterfly and moth caterpillars, native plants are typically better adapted to local conditions, making them easier to grow and more likely to survive.” For the Xerces Society plant list for the Great Lakes region go to: https://xerces.org/publications/plant-lists/native-plants-for-pollinators-and-beneficial-insects-great-lakes or go to the plant list and list of resources in our previous blog post that discusses the benefits of using native plants in your garden: https://www.charlevoixareagardenclub.org/post/native-plants-and-invasive-plants-good-vs-evil

If are not already using native plants in your garden, it’s time to start! There’s a wealth of resources available to home gardeners, and you can inspire others and do your part to help the larger ecosystem by planting native species, eliminating invasives, and joining HOMEGROWN NATIONAL PARK, “a bottom-up call-to-action to restore habitat where we live and work – extending national parks to our yards and communities.” The end of this post includes links to resources for selecting native plants for Michigan’s Northern Lower Peninsula and for identifying and eliminating invasives from your landscape. Native plants are endemic to a particular area, occurring there long before human habitation. These plants evolved and adapted to the local climate and growing conditions, becoming an integral part of the ecosystem. These important plant species provide nectar, pollen, and seeds that serve as food for native butterflies, insects, birds and other animals. Unlike natives, common horticultural plants do not provide energetic rewards for their visitors and often require insect pest control to survive. Native plants are advantageous because: · They do not require fertilizers and require fewer pesticides than lawns. · Native plants require less water than lawns and help prevent erosion. The deep root systems of many native Midwestern plants increase the soil's capacity to store water. They significantly reduce water runoff and, consequently, flooding. · Native plants help reduce air pollution. Native plantscapes do not require mowing. Excessive carbon from the burning of fossil fuels contributes to global warming. Native plants sequester, or remove, carbon from the air. · Native plants provide shelter and food for wildlife. · Native plants promote biodiversity and stewardship of our natural heritage. · Native plants are beautiful and increase scenic values! A few suggested native plants for Northern Michigan (see resources below for many more): · Maidenhair Fern, Adiantum pedatum · Golden Alexanders, Zizia aurea · Showy Goldenrod, Solidago speciosa · Sky Blue Aster, Aster azureus · Spotted Joe-pye Weed, Eupatoriadelphus maculatus · Sweet Black-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia subtomentosa · Common Buttonbush, Cephalanthus occidentalis · Winterberry, Ilex verticillata An invasive species is an introduced, nonnative organism that begins to spread or expand its range from the site of its original introduction and that has the potential to cause harm to the environment, the economy, or to human health. Invasive plants cause costly economic and ecological damage each year including crop decimation, clogging of water facilities and waterways, and increased fire vulnerability. Invasive plants are problematic because: · Invasive plant species outcompete natives and spread quickly. They displace native plants, prevent native plant growth, and create monocultures. · Invasive groundcovers (like ivy) have little root structure to bind the soil making erosion much more likely. · Invasive plants are a leading cause of declines in native plant and animal numbers, and are a factor in Endangered Species Act listings. · Invasive plants can reduce the amount of tree cover by preventing trees from becoming established. Invasives – the chief offenders in Michigan https://www.michiganinvasives.org/resources/ Autumn olive (Elaeagnus umbellata) Black and Pale swallow-worts (V. nigrum / V. rossicum) Black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia) Canada thistle (Cirsium arvense) Common buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica) Garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata) Glossy buckthorn (Frangula alnus) Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii) Japanese knotweed (Polygonum cuspidatum) Leafy spurge (Euphorbia virgata) Oriental bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus) Wild parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) Resources: Homegrown National Park is a grassroots call-to-action to regenerate biodiversity and ecosystem function by planting native plants and creating new ecological networks. The Michigan Garden Clubs have partnered with Homegrown National Park in order to encourage individuals to take action and get the word out about the importance of planting native. https://homegrownnationalpark.org/about Michigan State University Extension has online resources for selecting and maintaining native plant landscapes. There are over 1,800 native plant species in Michigan. MSU Native Plant List – Northern Lower Peninsula:https://www.canr.msu.edu/nativeplants/plant_facts/local_info/north_lower_peninsula University of Michigan Herbarium - Michigan Flora Database contains information, mapping, and search tools as a companion to the Field Manual of Michigan Flora. The site provides basic information about all vascular plants known to occur outside of cultivation in the state. https://michiganflora.net Plant it Wild is an independent, no-profit native plant group based in Benzie and Manistee counties in Michigan. Their website contains list of native plants that they use, and other resources: https://plantitwild.net Wildflower Association of Michigan promotes awareness of the ecological benefits of native plants and native plant communities. https://wildflowersmich.org Tip of the Mitt Watershed Council Native Plant List - Tip of the Mitt Watershed Council is dedicated to protecting our lakes, streams, wetlands, and groundwater in Antrim, Charlevoix, Cheboygan, and Emmet Counties. Their website includes Northern Michigan Native plants, invasive species to avoid, and sources for purchasing native plants. https://www.watershedcouncil.org/native-plants.html Wild Ones promotes environmentally friendly, sound landscaping to preserve biodiversity through the preservation, restoration, and establishment of native plant communities. They provide educational resources and free, professionally designed native garden templates. https://wildones.org Michigan Audubon provides a list of Michigan Native Plants for Bird Friendly Landscapes as well as other resources on their website. https://www.michiganaudubon.org/bfc/bird-friendly-plants/ Northwest Michigan Invasive Species Network is a Cooperative Invasive Species Management Area (or Cooperative Weed Management Area). Their website offers resources for identifying invasive species along with educational resources, treatment for invasives, and native plant guides. https://www.habitatmatters.org CAKE CISMA The cooperative invasive species management area serving Charlevoix, Antrim, Kalkaska, and Emmet counties. CISMAs are partnerships of groups and individuals that work to address invasive species impacts on the environment, economy and human health within a defined region. Their website provides resources for native and invasive plants in our region. https://www.cakecisma.org/learn Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation is an international nonprofit organization that protects the natural world through the conservation of invertebrates and their habitats. It provides a list of Native plants for Pollinators & Beneficial Insects for the Great Lakes region: https://xerces.org/sites/default/files/publications/22-021_01_NPPBI—GreatLakes_web.pdf Gruler Gardens, Petoskey, MI, is a native plant garden. Their annual plant sale dates are listed on their website. https://www.grulergardens.com/nativeplants Birdsfoot Native Nursery, South Boardman, MI, propagates Michigan native species from seed to produce high quality, container grown plants for landscaping professionals, homeowners and conservation efforts. They are not open for retail sales, but you can purchase online https://www.birdsfootnativenursery.com Black Cap Farm, Onekama, MI is a native plant nursery with over 200 species of Michigan native trees, shrubs, grasses, and perennials. https://www.blackcapplants.com Michigan Wildflowers has a list (with photos) of 45 common Michigan Wildflowers on their website: https://michwildflowers.com/michigan-wildflowers/ Michigan DNR Trees webpage has information about trees that are native to the State of Michigan. https://www.michigan.gov/dnr/education/michigan-species/plants-trees Otsego Conservation District offers trees and shrubs as well as their native plant greenhouse that sells locally grown plants. They maintain the Otsego County Alternative Landscaping Demonstration Garden in Gaylord, MI. http://www.otsegocd.org Michigan Wildflower Farm in Portland, MI, sells native plant seeds and offers helpful advice on starting a wildflower meadow. https://www.michiganwildflowerfarm.com

According to the calendar, spring officially arrives in March with the Vernal Equinox, but here in Northern Michigan, March typically doesn’t offer us “spring-like” weather. So, there’s a special joy when the spring bulbs start to pop out in April and May and offer their colorful blooms. Garden Club Member, Rhea Dow, has a clever way to curate those spring bulbs to create a beautiful living floral arrangement that will brighten your spring landscape, porch, or patio. She plants tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and other spring-blooming bulbs in shallow plastic pots in the fall and then sinks the pots into the garden – allowing them to rest there through the winter. In the early spring, the pots are dug out and placed on her patio, by the front door, or she gives them as gifts to friends. To reap this colorful reward, you have to think (and plant) a couple of seasons ahead, but it’s more than worth the effort when you are able to enjoy gorgeous early-season color around your home. Here is the process and some tips for success: When planting the bulbs in the fall, use shallow plastic pots with drainage holes. Clay pots will break when they freeze. To keep the outside of the pot clean, cover it with a plastic bag (cutting a hole in the bottom of the bag to allow for drainage). Select early-blooming varieties of tulips, daffodils, and minor bulbs. Some of Rhea’s favorites are: daffodil Tête-à-tête, tulip Praestens Fusilier, Glory of the Snow Chinodoxa Lucilias. Place four to five inches of soil in the pot, place bulbs close together, and cover the bulbs with potting soil. Sink the entire pot of bulbs in your garden or anywhere for easy access in the spring. You may have to protect the pots with netting or chicken wire to prevent squirrels, rabbits, and deer from stealing your bulbs! In early spring, dig out the pots and enjoy! You can place the shallow pots in larger/deeper planters to create beautiful still-life style arrangements. When the blooms have faded you can plant the bulbs (along with their foliage) in your garden – where they will bloom again next spring. Daffodils are safe to plant in areas that have deer traffic. The foliage should not be cut back until it has dried out. This allows the plant to store a food supply for next year. Tulips do not naturalize as daffodils do, and they are a deer favorite, so it is not typically worth trying to regrow them in the garden. The Charlevoix Area Garden Club sells spring-blooming bulbs each October at Apple Fest. This fall come out to East Park and support the club while you plan your spring planters! DAFFODIL (Narcissus spp.) The cheerful trumpet-shaped flowers of daffodil are a sure sign of spring. There are hundreds of varieties in a wide array of sizes and forms, with colors of yellow, white, orange, peach, and bi-colors. These reliable hardy bulbs are easy to grow and long-lived, providing many years of spring color in the landscape. TULIP (Tulipa spp.) Tulips bloom in nearly every color except true blue. There are 100 species and thousands of cultivars, from dwarf forms to stately Darwin hybrids. This bulb combines well with other spring blooming bulbs, early perennials and annuals. However, tulips are a deer favorite, so must be protected in the garden. HYACINTH (Hyacinthus orientalis) Hyacinth is one of the most intensely fragrant spring bulbs, with spiky clusters of star-shaped flowers. Hyacinth blooms in blue, purple, red, pink, orange, coral, yellow, and white. This easy care bulb combines well with other spring bulbs that bloom at the same time, such as daffodils and early tulips. Plant where the sweet fragrance can be enjoyed up close. GLORY OF THE SNOW (Chionodoxa spp.) Glory of the snow is one of the earliest bulbs to flower and is named for its ability to poke out from underneath the cover of snow. Clusters of star-shaped upward-facing flowers occur in colors of blue, pink, or white. Plants are exceptionally hardy and naturalize readily. GRAPE HYACINTH (Muscari armeniacum) Grape hyacinth is named for the tiny clusters of fragrant flowers that resemble grapes. The deep blue flower coloring is highly coveted, complementing many other spring blooming bulbs such as daffodils and tulips. OtherMuscarispecies occur in shades of white, pink lavender, or yellow. In the landscape group masses of 25 or more for the best effect. Easy to grow, hardy, and reliable.

Lovely three-petaled ephemeral spring plants can be found blooming in Michigan woodlands before deciduous trees are in full leaf. Trillium typically emerge in late April or early May in Northern Michigan. The blooms open slowly and may last into early June. When the blooms fade, the above-ground plants vanish, leaving only the underground plant structures to sleep until next year. Trillium are extremely fragile, and picking the flowers seriously injures the plant by preventing it from producing food for the next year, often effectively killing the plant and ensuring none will grow in its place. Trillium typically thrives in moist, woodland settings where rich, acidic soil is present. Most people are familiar with the larger white-flowering trillium (Trillium grandiflorum) which is common in our woods, but there are actually eight different species of trillium thought to occur naturally in our state. Four are rare and are assigned “Threatened” or “Endangered” protected status in Michigan. The state lists toadshade, prairie trillium, and snow trillium as threatened and painted trillium as endangered. A ninth species, green trillium, is believed to be extirpated, or disappeared completely from the state. Protected trillium cannot be collected from the wild under any circumstances. However, trilliums are available from garden centers. These nursery plants can be treated just like any other perennial. They work well in a shade garden with woodland phlox (Phlox divaricate), false Solomon’s seal (Maianthemum racemosum), foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia), and ferns. The status of trilliums in the wild was assessed in partnership with NatureServe, the New Mexico BioPark Society, and Mt. Cuba Center, the native plant garden and research facility in Delaware. Their report (published in April 2022) revealed that 32 percent of our native trillium species or varieties are threatened with extinction. The biggest concerns for the sustenance of trillium populations are animal grazing, urban development, and competition from invasive plants. Repeated grazing from deer can eventually weaken plants and wipe out large areas. In regions where deer populations have increased, trilliums have nearly disappeared. When the blooms are removed, it means no seed will be set. The trillium reproduction cycle, from seed to flowering plant, takes four to seven years — a remarkably long time for herbaceous plants. The invasives most likely to continue displacing trillium are Chinese privet (Ligustrum sinense), bush honeysuckle (Lonicera maackii) and garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata). These plants form dense stands which impede the growth of native species. Our club adopted the trillium as our logo several years ago. As Margaret Roach, the “In the Garden” columnist for the New York Times wrote last year, “Their distinctive, early flowers charm us, making them a kind of poster plant for other species in trouble, ambassadors for an interest in growing and conserving natives. Botanists often refer to them as ‘charismatic’ flora.” Hopefully, their charisma will capture you during a springtime walk in the woods. For more information about trillium: U.S. Forest Service: “About Trilliums” https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/beauty/trilliums/about.shtml Longfield Gardens: “All About Trillium” https://www.longfield-gardens.com/article/all-about-trillium/ Michigan Gardener: Plant Focus – Trillium https://www.michigangardener.com/plant-focus-trillium/

Those of us who garden here in Northern Michigan have our challenges – one of the biggest being the ever-increasing deer population. Last year the herds of deer in Charlevoix had grown to become such a problem for the city’s gardeners that it became a major topic of a heated City Council meeting. When spring arrives, deer are looking for green growth to help them recover from limited and low-quality winter food. They typically feed throughout the early morning and again from dusk until midnight on grasses and newly budding plants. When summer arrives, deer browse the leaves of select trees and shrubs as well your garden! In autumn deer are working to build fat reserves to help them survive, and they are most attracted to acorns, apples, maple and dogwood leaves, willow, and brambles. During the winter, when their food sources dwindle, they attack trees and shrubs - white pine, white cedar, red maple, yellow birch, dogwood, viburnum, sumac, and aspen. The branches, buds, and leaves within reach should be protected from deer damage. The members of the Charlevoix Area Garden Club employ numerous methods reduce deer damage in their gardens. The most successful strategies fall into several categories, and often they use these in combination: Plant flowers, trees, and shrubs that are not preferred by deer, while acknowledging that hungry deer will browse on almost anything. Avoid plants that are “deer candy” like Hosta, Tulips, Roses. Deer dislike plants with strong scents (Herbs, Alliums) or fuzzy foliage (Dusty Miller, Lambs Ears, Ferns). Foxglove, Hellebore, and Daffodil contain compounds that are poisonous, so deer will leave them alone. The placement of plants in part determines the extent of damage. Plant more susceptible species near the home, in a fenced area, or inside a protective ring of less-preferred species. Interplanting with species that deer will not eat can help keep them away from other plants. Deer repellents, both homemade and commercially available, will work if regularly reapplied. You should spray weekly or after a rain. CAGC Member, Rhea Dow notes: “Deer are creatures of habit so I spray early before seeing nibble damage.” Fencing or netting is a must for a vegetable garden and for many new budding shrubs. A tall fence (8 feet or higher) is the only sure deer-proofing method. Netting can be placed around individual plants – particularly when they are sending out new growth. Deer have a preference for young plants and shoots. Methods of frightening deer include dogs, lights, sprinklers, can all scare away deer – although deer can learn to become accustomed to the sounds or sights. The Charlevoix Area Garden Club established the Depot Historic Gardens in 2002. Deer are among the many visitors. Over the years the Garden's plants have change to reflect what the deer do not eat. Below is a list of plants that have been a success in the Depot Heritage Garden and in the private gardens of some of our members: Shrubs, Ferns, Grasses, and Ground Cover Buxus sempervirens, Boxwood – because of Boxwood Blight, use cultivars that are known to be resistant. Spiraea japonica, Japanese Spirea - used as a specimen plant or as a hedge, screen, or border. Panicum virgatum, Switchgrass – native, tall prairie grass, works well at back of borders. Adiantum pedatum, Maidenhair Fern – native, fine-textured foliage, suitable for shade. Pachysandra terminalis, Pachysandra or Japanese Spurge – is a very common groundcover that spreads by rhizomes to form large colonies. Perennials Liatris spicata, Blazing Star – vertical spikes of purple or white flowers. ‘Floristan’ is a cultivar often found in nurseries. There is also native: Rough blazing star, Liatris aspera. Geranium 'Rozanne', Cranesbill – one of the longest blooming perennials in the garden. Astilbe japonica, False Spirea – is an excellent shade perennial. Paeonia, Peony – blooms from late spring to early summer. Plants can take several years to establish themselves. Alchemilla mollis, Lady’s Mantle is an adaptable European garden perennial grown for both its interesting foliage and sprays of flowers in midsummer. Dicentra spectabilis, Bleeding heart is a native of eastern Asia and works well in a shade garden with ferns and astilbe. Colchicum, Autumn Crocus is a fall flowering bulb in the lily family. Lavandula, Lavender is a part of the mint family and is native to Mediterranean countries. Baptista australis, Blue False Indigo is native to eastern North American prairies, meadows, and open woods. It produces spires of blue flowers in late spring. Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’, Siberian bugloss, is grown primarily for its shimmering foliage, but it also produces lovely sprays of blue flowers in late spring. Leucanthemum × superbum, Shasta Daisy bloom from early through late summer. Iris x germanica, Bearded Iris is the most commonly found garden iris. Narcissus, Daffodil are a reliable spring bloomer that contain the alkaloid lycorine which makes them unpalatable to deer and rodents. Allium, Ornamental Onion come in a variety of sizes. Allium giganteum produce a large ball of star-shaped lilac-purple florets which appears like a single flower on a long stem. Achillea millefolium, Yarrow. Both native and introduced varieties of yarrow are available in an array of colors. It attracts pollinators. Digitalis, Foxglove is a stately flower with tall elegant spikes covered in bell-shape blossoms beloved by hummingbirds and bumblebees. Helleborus, Lenten Rose makes an excellent shade garden plant and offers some of the first blooms of spring. Agastache foeniculus, Anise Hyssop is a short-lived herbaceous perennial with blue flowers and fragrant foliage. It is native to the upper Midwest. Nepeta, Catmint is a carefree, drought-tolerant perennial that makes a great border. It’s purple-blue flowers start appearing early in summer. Annuals Senecio cineraria, Dusty Miller is grown for its ornamental silver-grey foliage. Tagetes, Marigolds are no-fuss sun-loving flowers that repel deer and other garden pests – making them a great companion plant in your vegetable beds as well as you flower garden. Lobularia maritima, Sweet Alyssum is a low-growing, spreading, and long-flowering plant well suited to the front of a border or in containers. Ageratumm, Floss Flower is a native of Central and South America. Most nursery species are compact and flower from late spring into fall in shades of blue and purple. Antirrhinum majus, Snapdragon. Snapdragons bloom most profusely in the cooler weather of spring and fall. Vegetables and Herbs (that are reasonably safe to grow without a deer fence) Onions Garlic Asparagus Hot peppers Zucchini Rosemary Chives Thyme Oregano Mint Sage Preferred commercial deer repellents: Plot Saver: can be sprayed on a plastic ribbon strung around the garden or directly on plants. Apply once a week and after rains. Deer Out: works well if applied regularly. It has a minty odor so it’s not as offensive to humans as some of the other deer sprays. This product is recommended by a number of our Garden Club members. Home-made repellents: 1 Gallon of water, 3 eggs beaten, 3 T garlic powder - Mix together, strain into a spray apparatus and apply to plants. 1 Gallon of water, 1 egg beaten, 1 T oil, 1 T dish soap, ½ cup milk - Mix well, place in spray bottle or apparatus. Keep lid on as it does smell! Audrey Etienne fills 1-pound coffee cans with Milorganite and places them around beds. Avoid by the house as it smells. Place cans (or piles of Milorganite) every 10 to 12 feet in areas where deer come. Another solution from Audrey: 1 gallon of water, 1 tablespoon baking soda and one raw egg beaten. Let it sit 72 hours and put in a sprayer. Apply as needed. Keeps awhile. Repels rabbits and deer. Needs to be reapplied after heavy rain. Cass Williamson purchases lavender mulch and lavender sachets locally from Lavender Hill Farm to use as deer repellents. Other strategies: A few years ago, when Lois Lewis had a large vegetable garden the deer stayed in the wooded area near by. As the deer population became larger, she used the "scarecrow" sprayer to keep them out. Sue Thurow notes: “We started out using scarecrows but have mostly switched to the Orbit Enforcer Sprinkler. The reason we like this better is that it has the choice of Day/Night sensitivity so you don’t have to turn them off during the day. Or you can choose to have them on all the time. We also have a timer on the hose bib so we don’t have water presser on all the time. We hook several of these up in series and it works like a charm! No deer issues at all as long as they are active. Batteries last all summer. You can buy them on Amazon for about $90. We could not have the flower garden without these!” Rich Brown also finds the motion sensor sprinklers very effective. When Rhea Dow lived in the wooded acreage on Boyne City Road, her gardens were protected by an electric fence and repellent sprays. She notes “In town, I can't use the fence. Developed for orchards, I have used Green Screen bags to protect small trees. Beware that dogs love the bags and become ill if they eat them.” Beth Cowie plants herbs such as thyme, mint, sage, rosemary, and chamomile throughout her perennial beds. Roman Chamomile and thyme work well as a low front border, they are not touched by the deer, and they (mostly) prevent the deer from walking into the beds. Cindy Vermeesch uses Deer Out, but admits "The only thing to really keep them out is an eight foot (or higher) fence!" Resources Some helpful books for selecting plants: Deer Resistant Design by Karen Chapman 50 Beautiful Deer Resistant Plants by Ruth Rogers Clausen “Smart Gardening to Deter Deer”, Michigan State University https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/smart_gardening_to_deter_deer “Reducing Deer Damage to Ornamental and Garden Plants”, Cornell University Extension https://monroe.cce.cornell.edu/resources/deer-damage-reducing “Landscaping By Deer: Deer Resistant Plants at a Horticulturist’s Home Garden”, by Dr. Tom Fernandez, Department of Horticulture, Michigan State University https://www.mnla.org/sites/default/files/inline-files/deer_resistant_plants_fernandez2021_red.pdf "Ornamental Plants, listed by susceptibility to deer damage", from Cornell Coop Extension (printable pdf). https://dedaa1c4-c87b-4609-8f7c-551fa2f92a3b.usrfiles.com/ugd/dedaa1_af3b6cb9e2f844aa9f48167c161ed703.pdf Landscape Plants Rated by Deer Resistance, from Rutgers University, New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station. https://njaes.rutgers.edu/deer-resistant-plants/

Fed up with invasive species and sterile landscapes, Douglas Tallamy urges Americans to go native and go natural. He wants his own ten acres in rural southeastern Pennsylvania to be a model for the rest of the country. A model for suburbs, exurbs, uninhabited woods, highway margins, city parks, streets and backyards, even rooftops and window boxes, basically every square foot of land not paved or farmed. He wants to see it replanted with native North American flora, supporting a healthy array of native North American butterflies, moths and other arthropods – which provide food for a robust population of songbirds, small mammals and reptiles. He even has a name for it: Homegrown National Park. Plants can tolerate a wide range of environmental conditions, but insects tend to be specialists. Insects feed on and pollinate a narrow spectrum of plant life, sometimes just a single species. “Ninety percent of the insects that eat plants can develop and reproduce only on the plants with which they share an evolutionary history,” Tallamy has found that within the same genus, introduced plant species provide on average 68 percent less food for insects than natives. A plant that in its native habitat might support dozens or hundreds of species of insects, birds and mammals may go virtually uneaten in a new ecosystem. An estimated 40 million acres of the surface of the lower 48 states is lawn. Homes, golf courses and parks grow more acres of turf grass than U.S. farmers devote to corn, wheat and fruit trees — combined.Homegrown National Park is an aspirational project to repurpose half of America’s lawns (20 million acres) for ecologically productive use. The intention is to unite fragments of land scattered across the country into a network of habitat, which could be achieved, he wrote in Bringing Nature Home, “by untrained citizens with minimal expense and without any costly changes to infrastructure.” The plots wouldn’t have to be contiguous, although that would be preferable. Moths and birds can fly, and you’re helping them just by reducing the distance they have to travel for food. In the state of Michigan, between 3 to 5 percent of the total land area is covered by turf grass (lawns, golf courses, etc.). The Michigan Garden Clubs has adopted Homegrown National Park as one of its major initiatives – encouraging homeowners, farmers, land managers, and anyone with soil to plant native and eliminate invasives. Lawns not only eliminate habitat for North American insects and birds, but they generally account for 50 – 75 percent of a home’s water use during the summer. Homeowners spill nearly 17 million gallons of gas while filling mowers, and tens of millions of pounds of chemical fertilizer and pesticides are used on our lawns – much of it running off into our waterways. Doug Tallamy has some suggestions to help rejuvenate the nation’s yards: 1. Shrink your lawn. Tallamy recommends halving the area devoted to lawns in the continental United States—reducing water, pesticide and fertilizer use. Replace grass with plants that sustain more animal life, he says: “Every little bit of habitat helps.” 2. Remove invasive plants. Introduced plants sustain less animal diversity than natives do. Worse, some exotics crowd out indigenous flora. Notable offenders: Japanese honeysuckle, Oriental bittersweet, multiflora rose and kudzu. 3. Create no-mow zones. Native caterpillars drop from a tree’s canopy to the ground to complete their life cycle. Put mulch or a native ground cover such as Virginia creeper (not English ivy) around the base of a tree to accommodate the insects. Birds will benefit, as well as moths and butterflies. 4. Equip outdoor lights with motion sensors. White lights blazing all night can disturb animal behavior. LED devices use less energy, and yellow light attracts fewer flying insects. 5. Plant keystone species. Among native plants, some contribute more to the food web than others. Native oak, cherry, cottonwood, willow and birch are several of the best tree choices. 6. Welcome pollinators. Goldenrod, native willows, asters, sunflowers, evening primrose and violets are among the plants that support beleaguered native bees. 7. Fight mosquitoes with bacteria. Inexpensive packets containing Bacillus thuringiensis can be placed in drains and other wet sites where mosquitoes hatch. Unlike pesticide sprays, the bacteria inhibit mosquitoes but not other insects. 8. Avoid harsh chemicals. Dig up or torch weeds on hardscaping, or douse with vinegar. Discourage crabgrass by mowing lawn 3 inches high. If you want to maintain an area of turf grass, take a look at this article from Plant it Wild about the best way to care for it: https://plantitwild.net/lawn-care/ Resources: Homegrown National Park Website: https://homegrownnationalpark.org Michigan State University Native Plant Finder for Northern Lower Peninsula: https://www.canr.msu.edu/nativeplants/plant_facts/local_info/north_lower_peninsula Tip of the Mitt Watershed Council Native Plant List: https://www.watershedcouncil.org/native-plants.html Plant it Wild https://plantitwild.net Northwest Michigan Invasive Species Network: https://www.habitatmatters.org State of Michigan Invasive Plants: https://www.michigan.gov/invasives/id-report/plants Wild Ones: https://wildones.org Michigan Native Plants for Bird Friendly Landscapes: https://www.michiganaudubon.org/bfc/bird-friendly-plants/

Are you craving fresh salad greens? In mid-winter, the greens found in the grocery store often seem to wilt within a day or two – probably because they have been in transit for a number of days before you purchase them. You can, however eat local produce in the off-season, you just need to grow it yourself! Charlevoix Garden Club Member Rhea Dow shares her method for growing salad greens indoors. Jiffy pellets work well. Just add water for a perfect seed starter. Select seeds for containers. Small plants are best under indoor lights. Following germination, select one plant per pellet (thinning out the others). Transfer the seedlings to a larger container when roots reach out of the Jiffy pot. Use any good potting mix. This lettuce has been growing under grow-lights for 21 days. This French Red Leaf Lettuce from Renee's Garden Seeds has been growing for 41 days. Here is the progression from seedling to table ready. Eleven days, twenty-one days, forty-one days. Under the grow light, the younger plants are elevated to be closer to the light source. Some Helpful Tips: Location and Light: If your natural light is dim in winter, (which it typically is here in Northern Michigan), provide supplemental lighting for baby greens. The full spectrum grow light should be placed about 4″ above the top of the leaves. Your chosen location must also be a safe one. Pick a spot away from active heat sources and cold drafts, and inaccessible to mischievous, hungry pets. Seed Starting Containers: Flat, shallow containers or 4-inch pots are work well for starting the seeds. You can recycle produce containers or take-out dishes, some of which come with clear covers handy for seed starting. Wash them well and poke a few holes in the bottom for drainage. What Seeds to Use: A fast-growing mesclun is a good choice. Look for loose-leaf varieties, such as Baby Oakleaf, Tom Thumb and Black-Seeded Simpson. Some varieties are known to grow well in winter light, such as Arctic King, Winter Marvel and Winter Density. Avoid head lettuces, which are difficult to grow indoors. Planting: Scatter the seeds thickly across the soil surface, covered them with a bit of seed starting mix, and water them well with a small watering can. Place your containers in a warm location, on a small tray to collect excess water. To maintain moisture, cover them loosely with plastic wrap or a lid. Check daily for signs of sprouts. Once sprouts appear, remove the cover and thin the seedlings so they're about an inch apart. Keep the seedlings moist but not overwatered. Enjoy! Another (quicker) option is growing microgreens. Microgreens include a variety of edible immature greens, harvested with scissors less than a month after germination, when the plants are up to 2 inches tall. The stem, cotyledons (or seed leaves) and first set of true leaves are all edible. Here's a step-by-step guide to growing microgreens from Penn State University Extension: https://extension.psu.edu/a-step-by-step-guide-for-growing-microgreens-at-home

The Smokey Bear & Woodsy Owl Poster Contest is an annual tradition amongst elementary schools, scout troops, and youth groups across the Nation. Each year members of the Charlevoix Area Garden Club have worked with elementary school students and art teachers in our community to encourage participation in the poster contest. This year, posters created by students from St. Mary School in Charlevoix were judged locally – with the local winners sent to the State Contest for judging. The 4th grade CAGC winner, Mackenzie Glotzhober, was awarded 3rd place at the State level, and the 5th grade CAGC winner, Evie Bennett, was awarded 2nd place at the State level. Charlevoix Area Garden Club's Winning 4th Grade poster - created by Mackenzie Glotzhober, St. Mary School Charlevoix Area Garden Club's Winning 5th Grade poster - created by Evie Bennett, St. Mary School What is now known as the Smokey Bear & Woodsy Owl Poster Contest began as an initiative of the New Mexico State Garden Club in 1959. The following year, the National Council of State Garden Clubs (today’s National Garden Clubs, Inc.) decided to replicate this contest and called it the National Smokey Bear Coloring Contest. The winners of the first National Smokey Bear Coloring Contest were announced at the National Council of State Garden Club’s 1961 convention. In 1994, the contest celebrated Smokey Bear’s 50th birthday under the name of the Smokey Bear & Woodsy Owl Poster Contest. The contest became a national art competition in which children draw their interpretation of Smokey Bear and his wildfire prevention message or Woodsy Owl and his conservation message. Charlevoix Area Garden Club's Winning 2nd Grade poster - created by Kathryn Chellis, St. Mary School Created in 1944, the Smokey Bear Wildfire Prevention campaign is the longest-running public service advertising campaign in U.S. history, educating generations of Americans about their role in preventing wildfires. Despite the campaign’s success, wildfire prevention remains one of the most critical issues affecting our country. Smokey Says: “Only You Can Prevent Wildfires”. Woodsy Owl is America’s icon for the conservation of the environment. Since 1971, Woodsy has helped parents and teachers inspire children to observe, explore, and care for the environment. He challenges children to “Lend a Hand, Care for the Land!” and to take an active role in caring for the land through recycling, reusing, and reducing waste, planting and caring for trees, using resources wisely, and not littering.

Composting is nature’s way of recycling. It is one of the most powerful actions we can take to reduce our trash, address climate change, and build healthy soil. By turning food scraps and yard waste into compost, we can transform our trash into a beneficial, value-added soil amendment and use it to protect the environment. Avid gardeners know that compost has many benefits. It Improves the structure and health of your soil by adding organic matter. In sandy soils, it can increase the moisture-holding capacity which aids the drought resistance of grass, shrubs, and flowers. In heavy soils, such as clay, compost increases the infiltration, allowing moisture to move easily into a plant’s root zone. Compost is decomposed organic material. You can make compost at home or buy finished compost in bags or bulk at plant nurseries and home improvement centers. The decomposition of compost takes place through the work of microscopic organisms including fungi and bacteria, and larger organisms like earthworms, sow bugs, millipedes and more. Adding compost to the soil increases the activity of soil organisms - which helps to provide nutrients to your plants over time. The nutrients in compost will be released slowly throughout the growing season, but for some plants, compost may not replace fertilizer. Lawns, vegetables and fruiting trees and shrubs often need additional fertilizer to thrive. Apply the correct amount of compost to your work site. Adding too much compost may be harmful, especially in vegetable gardens. You can apply too much compost at one time or over several years. Too much compost in soil stunts plant growth. It also may create water pollution. For new garden beds: Apply a 3 to 4-inch layer of compost to the soil surface and incorporate into the top 8 – 12 inches of soil with a fork, spade or tiller. For existing garden beds: Apply a 1-inch layer of compost to the bed surface each year and incorporate into the soil. For raised beds: Fill new beds with a three-way mix with equal parts topsoil, sand, and compost. Expect the newly filled beds to compact over time as the compost in the mix further decomposes. Don’t fill raised beds with compost by itself. Compost lacks the mineral component of earthen soil and planting mixes. Compost must be mixed with these materials to support plant growth. Another option for raised beds is sheet composting – also known as lasagna gardening. It’s a great way to fill a new raised bed while simultaneously composting garden and kitchen waste. In this method you create layers of material that will decompose as your plants grow. It best to fill your beds in the fall, so that they get a head-start decomposing before you plant in the spring. You can read more about this method in this article from the Brooklyn Botanic Garden: https://www.bbg.org/gardening/article/make_a_lasagna_garden_in_a_raised_bed Compost should be applied to the soils before seeding a new lawn or laying sod. Compost can also be added annually, in the spring, to existing lawns. For an existing lawn, first mow the lawn short and collect the clippings (which can be added to your home composting bin). Aerate the lawn and then apply about ¼ inch of compost over the grass. You can spread grass seed over the compost to create a denser stand of turf. Add a 1-inch layer of compost around existing perennials and herbs in the spring, and top-dress annuals with compost after planting. For information about creating compost at home, read this information from Michigan State University Extension: https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/composting_a_smart_gardening_practice_to_recycle_garden_and_yard_waste